Edinburgh, Week 1ish of 3ish
Posted on February 2, 2024 • 22 minutes • 4523 words
We got into our place and holy cr**…it was amazing! So much character, views, domed skylight and open kitchen. Terrible couches, but we could forgive that. Really nice to have 3 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms; we were in heaven. Dan and Ben headed straight out to the grocery store for some things, the other 2 ran around like dogs needing to pee on everything and I made some pasta with pesto we had brought with us and dried penne that was left over from previous guests. Sliced up bell peppers that Dan bought and we called it a dinner. And the kids were so excited to eat at the counter and I was fine with that…anything to have me sit less in the day.
Kids went to bed and Dan and I had a drink with fancy schmancy glasses.
Knowing Dan was going to be wrapped up with work stuff during the week, and not wanting to push it off so much we didn’t do it, we went to the castle the next day. We walked along a lovely park that you needed a key to get in. There was a number to call to get a key, but not sure what it entailed.
Everywhere you look in Edinburgh, and I mean EVERYWHERE, there is something to see. SO many old buildings, parks, old volcanic tuffs, cosy pubs, cathedrals, wooded paths and the list goes on. We really couldn’t get over it.
We weren’t able to get tickets online (credit card issue), but no more than 2 minutes wait to get them at the gate. Dan bought them and the kids and I took in the view of Edinburgh, which was quite beautiful from the castle. And it’s a very striking castle, especially (or maybe because) being perched high above a beautiful old city.
We entered under a serious portcullis (the drop down gate with death points at the bottom). I wonder how often someone was killed by this coming down. Exact terrible timing. Maybe if you aren’t going to make it, try another way?
I got us all audio guides while Dan and the kids wandered off a bit. Knowing my kids, they gravitated right to the giant cannon called Mons Meg. It was huge! Actually, one of the largest cannons ever built based on diameter of stone it could fire off. It could shoot a 175kg cannon ball 2 miles and this was back in the mid 15th century. So Ben, if the diameter of the stone is directly related to the distance it can be fired, how far could a 350kg stone be fired?
I forgot to mention that the weather, according to my trusty weather app, was 45 deg when we left and I was very excited. A bit too excited as I did not put on my fleece lined leggings under my jeans for the first time since mid-December. Well, I paid the price. It was so cold up there because of the wind. I froze. Kids didn’t care, except for their hands as I didn’t pack gloves. It was 45 deg! Max improvised with his audio guide.
I tried to copy him, but it didn’t work.
The castle reminded me a lot of the castle in Krakow. There was a ramp up at the entrance, but once you got it, it felt like a little village. Lots on individual buildings with grass areas and walkways all about. No rumba lawn mower here NOR a 2 year old losing it and laying on the ground, refusing to move.
We had listened to a podcast over breakfast about the castle and had learned of the Black Dinner, when 2 brothers were invited to a dinner at the castle, but when the ‘food’ came, it was a black boars head. Which I guess back in the day, meant you were going to die. Makes sense. They were then taking outside and executed. Wandering through parts of the castle, we found the room the dinner supposedly happened in. Yuck. Kids were very excited to see the place that the podcast had talked about.
Every direction you looked, you had an amazing view.
We continued on see some of the prisons and I was blown away by the amount of food they were required to be given in a day. Whether they were given this or not is a different story. I forgot to take a photos, but I remember 1lb bread, meat, butter, 2 pints of beer. I am not saying they were humanly treated (maybe they were), but if they were given the food that was stated on the sign, is seemed that they weren’t starved.
A cannon was shot everyday (except Sundays) and it was 12:50, so even though we were ready to head out, we decided to stick around for that. A much more modern looking cannon and maybe even shot with the push of a button, to the dismay of the kids who wanted a match to be struck. I think I stopped taking photos about an hour ago because my hands were so cold and I couldn’t risk taking them out of my pockets. That or, 7 months into the trip, I just take less photos. :)
As we exited the castle (or at least tried to) we were dragged into the gift shop by the kids who were very excited they brought their own money. Luckily there was a sale area or the kids would not have been able to afford anything. Sam had the most with 2 weeks of allowance, 2 lost teeth money and money found on the ground. He found a small owl (Hedwig) that was on sale for 4 pounds, instead of 12! Max found some magic lemon candy in a glass jar, that has some reference to potions and wizards. Normally 8 pounds, but on sale for 2. Kids were thrilled. There was also some other candies that we were wondering aloud what it was when a couple explained that it’s called Edinburgh Rock and it’s a candy you usually buy at the coast and a very traditional candy to the area. Dan decided to use ‘his’ money to get that for the family. It was a hit.
Dan found us a place to eat and luckily only a 5 minute wait, even though it was packed. It was a mashed potato place, or something like that. We were seated and sent the kids to go wash here hands so we could have just a minute of quiet. The menu looked amazing and it was hard to decide, but they grow their own mushrooms onsite for one of the dishes, so I went with that. Correct choice. And it deserved a close up.
While we were waiting for our food, kids got out their field journals for some writing and drawings of/about the castle and I sat there still in my jacket.
Almost all of the meals could be ordered kid size for 5 pounds, which seems awesome. There were about 10 mashed potato choices, but for the kids I went simple, yet a variety. Everyone was happy with their food, but we did a last minute swap of Max’s and Sam’s due to Sam’s lack of ability to chew types of meet sometimes.
On the walk home, Dan broke up the Edinburgh Rock and we sucked it on the way back…yes, still freezing. We all kind of crashed and Sam was in a very cuddly mood, especially with his new owl.
The next day, Sunday and the last day before Dan would be going to the office a lot, he took the kids on a hike so I could get some work done. They climbed the hill behind Arthur’s Seat and I received these photos.
But before leaving, this guy helped make pancakes for breakfast. Or go to meal to get a little home feeling.
I got a ton of work done and they came back exhausted and Dan was bubbling with how awesome the area was. So much so, that he convinced me I should go for a run and check it out. Well I did, and it really was amazing! I ran a couple blocks to a long park that I ran through, a couple more blocks and then I was at the base of the hill in Holyrood Park, with so much space for running.
The next day we bid adieu to Dan and wished him luck on his first day. Not the day he was expecting as his sponsor’s daughter had a health scare and wasn’t going to be in at all that week. But he still went in and was able to meet others and check out the lab…and he had his own office. :)
Kids and I did lots of school work and then checked out the part that was 2 blocks from our place. Great size and kids were very happy.
I was cold so I walked laps and laps and laps. Some people had clearly used the park for a drinking party recently and it was kind of a mess. Kids found it very fun to get the cans and smash them under the see-saw. I gingerly picked up some big glass pieces. A bit annoying, but it still worked out. And either they dropped them, or threw them, but we found about 18 coins. Kids were thrilled! Dan met us as it was getting dark to take 2 kids home and Max (who insisted to come so he could ‘help’) and I went to the bigger grocery store for Mexican cooking supplies.
We hit the jackpot and got just what we needed. Schlepped it all back and Dan was already halfway done with the guacamole. We had been waiting for the day when the avocados we had were going to be just right. It was perfection.
Everything my heart could have wanted. It had been 7 months since we had Mexican food as I am very hesitant to order it abroad after a ’nachos’ in South Africa turned out to be Nacho Flavored Doritos with Cheese Wiz. I was very happy, but so was everyone!
Next day was again cold and we had no rush to get outside. Well the kids probably did, but not me. Max is channeling my inter-coldness here.
Sam turned some math into a game that the person who goes second ALWAYS loses. ALWAYS! I played along, no big deal. Ben said he wanted to play, so I pulled him aside and explained it to him and to just play along. He lasted 5 very patient minutes, but then said he was done.
View from the kitchen. Hard to see, but you could see the water beyond. Very clear day and very cold day.
Lunch of left over tacos and some chatting and searching on which park to go to next.
We picked on that had a giant tunnel and a slide build into the side of the hill. And it was close. As we walked down the steps to it, it looked awesome.
Lots of open spaces and playground equipment. Well, the slide had been taking out and I told them they couldn’t slide down the muddy hill. Spirits were low. I get it, we had decided to come because the slide looked cool. Also the fields were all mud and I didn’t want them ruining the grass. They found sticks, played a bit, Sam named an old stump ‘Headquarters’.
And then Sam found a coin! Then all hands on deck to find more and we did. Eventually, we walked through the giant tunnel which was probably an old train line turned walking/biking path and then headed to another park. Already cold and having to pee, we stopped in at a cafe so I could get a coffee, which I forgot to order decaf!, and go pee. About 15 minutes later we got to a park that was loved by all! In ground trampolines, a giant log swing, so many things to climb, kids to play with.
We lasted until about 5:30 when Dan met us for dinner. He could have met us at the restaurant, but I was a bit concerned about dragging the kids away. No need to worry though. Just have to remind them if they want to come back another day, need to listen now. I found a Turkish restaurant and I think we were all missing Turkish food. For purely nostalgia’s sake, Dan ordered an Efes.
We sent the photo to our friends and they were so confused why he ordered the beer when there was actual good beer to be drunk in Scotland. We were so excited when our food came, I forgot to take a picture of it all, but it looked amazing! Sam claimed the soup he ordered tasted JUST like soup he had in Turkey.
We waddled home completely stuffed and happy.
There was construction going on in an apartment next to us and the kids loved watching. At one point a blow torch came out.
After morning school work and lunch, we headed out for some exploring. Right by our house was a hill with what looked like the Parthenon perched on top. We headed that way and came to this awesome door to the hill, but it was closed! Luckily it wasn’t the main entrance and we were able to walk just around the corner. Pretty cool to think this was the old entrance. A door to the public space, really cool. Like a non-secret garden.
On the side of the steps up Calton Hill were green clovers, ivy, grass, and more. All things green.
And at the top, views in all directions and an amazing sky.
A bit hard to see, but in the front buildings, there is a massive green roof. But not just a green roof, a whole green area with trees, bushes and grass.
And looping around the top of the hill, we got a view of the castle. Every time I see it, it brings such joy. It’s popped into view around a corner when I was running, it peak through the trees at The Royal Botanical Gardens. Love it every single time.
Walking to the center of the hill we found the Greek structure, the one I thought looked like the Parthenon. Funny enough, it was built to resemble the Parthenon in Athens! So, not weird it looked just like it. A monument to honor soldiers who died in the Napoleonic Wars, it wasn’t completes as money ran out but it was decided to leave it as is.
Once Ben got himself up, all kids had to.
It was really beautiful up there and you had a 360 degree view of the city by just walking a few minutes in each direction to another side of the hill. There was a sign explaining the ancient volcanic activity that created the 2 big rock outcrops in Edinburgh, composed of layers of tuff. The one the castle is on and the one in Holyrood Park.
After more walking around and finding 3 coins half buried in the mud, we started out way down.
Dan and I are giant Sherlock Holmes fans. So much that Ben’s middle name is Watson and our family trust has Sherlock’s name in it. I read it while pregnant with Ben and while breastfeeding. We found a Sherlock statue in honor of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle who was born very close to this spot.
We had been outside for a bit and I needed some warmth. I had all the e-readers with us, so we stopped at a coffee shop by our place for babyccinos, a latte and some sweets.
As promised, we headed to the park close to our house for a bit, dinner a home and a typical evening.
Same morning of school work and I got work done. With my back still causing me a lot of pain, I’m pretty much avoiding sitting at all costs. This place has been great for that as the family can sit at the counter for meals and I can stand. And I set up my work station to make myself a standing desk.
We were going to be moving apartments in 2 days and I wanted to go to the Botanical Gardens while we were here. It’s a small city, so we wouldn’t have been far at our other place, but it was closer to us here. And this way, we got to walk along the river to get there. So at the end of the day, not close once I mapped out the scenic route for us. The walk to the water was not fast as Max wanted to walk the whole way by ‘climbing’ on the fence.
No complaints really as the streets were all lovely to look at. We walked through 2 circuses (a giant ring of houses, with the word circus coming from Latin, meaning ring or circle).
25 minutes later, 8-10 for a normal person and we arrived at the river. Old stone steps down and we were in a totally different world with trees and grass.
Just about 100 yards up river was an old well. There was a walkway hanging off the back face so you could stand over the water and see the backside of the old well…now that seemed to be more of a monument/memorial.
We walked along the river for about 2 miles towards the Royal Botanical Gardens. Parts felt just like a trail and felt quite remote, other parts were extremely muddy that I had to hold Max’s hand as he was slipping a lot and I didn’t want muddy pants.
Even though it was the dead of the winter, flowers were still managing to pop up everywhere. Just one kind mind you.
We made it out of the mud and trees and walked a couple blocks to a cafe before the gardens. Scones, croissants, babyccinnos and coffee.
All loaded up with warmth and calories we walked into the Royal Botanical Gardens. Free entrance! We paid 1 pound for a map though. As we were unfolding the map and talking about where we wanted to go, a gentleman came up to us and told us about a part that wasn’t on the map where kids can climb/run through a maze of trees/bushes that had been formed into tunnels. Sam then decided we had to head straight there and was annoyed with my loopty-loop I wanted to do.
It was amazing. So well done and SO much to see. We just wandered and wandered.
We were clearly here in the non-peak season. Some areas were a bit bare with more signs than plants above ground.
We just wandered and wandered. Kids ran ahead, fell behind and went every which way to check out a new path.
It was winter, but a few plants looked like they were really trying and ready to come up. We also practiced our Latin pronunciation.
It was huge and so many plants. We tried to estimate how many species of plants and actual plants. 10,000 species? 100,000 plants? No idea. No much greenness.
We found this tree that had small completely vertical growing branches on the bigger branches.
As usual my trusty navigator. Actually, usually it’s Ben but Ben was more occupied with racing ahead finding cool plants. The map was done really well. Loved the graphics.
They place was huge and you could have wandered around for the whole day. It was a bit cold and we did well for 2 hours. We were still looking for the tree tunnels, but found a view of the castle on the way.
And finally, we found the tree maze…or did we walk around for just the right amount of time and then ‘stumble’ upon this when it was almost time to leave? Got to keep the kids looking forward to something.
Kids played for a bit, we found a restroom and then headed to the exit. Turns out we entered though the small entrance and the west entrance had a whole indoor section/museum.
Lots of cool exhibits and a huge nursery that, had we been living here long term, I would have spent a lot of money at.
It wouldn’t be a day in the city with the kids if we didn’t go to a playground, so we ate sandwiches on the way and walked the 2 blocks to the park. It was more for younger kids, but no one cared.
I was worried about being cold, but they had adult ‘workout’ machines around the peripheral so I did nordic thing and the swing your legs forward and back thing. That and some walking loops while chatting with my mom, I lasted over an hour!
It was going to be a 45minute walk home so I looked up a bus. We caught it perfectly and got to ride on the 2nd level. Wins for everyone. Dan learned at the office that you tap your credit card to ride (it has to be one per person). It charges you per ride until you hit the daily max (I forget what it is) and then you ride for free. Really convenient actually, except when you have 2 kids with you and only one card. Maybe there was a family option, but the driver just charged me and let the kids ride for free.
We got home cold and warn out. Sometimes they drive each other crazy, most of the time they play really well together and sometimes they are too sweet with each other. An awesome day all around.
The next day was Saturday and I needed to get work done. Ben missed out on going to a coffee shop the other day due to 2 non-listening brothers and I was feeling he just needed chill time. So Dan took Max and Sam to the art museum, but not before they packed their backpacks with all needed art supplies. Ben and I stayed home. I worked, he did school work and read. Late morning, we went to the coffee shop with our books and ate cinnamon rolls, drank out beverages and read our books. Sometimes together and sometimes I read Percy Jackson with him. It was lovely and SO peaceful!!!!
And what is almost as good as a coffee date with Mom and a good book? Going to a fish market and getting to pick out fish for dinner.
Proud with his (go figure) salmon choice.
The photos Dan had been sending me during the day were amazing! The art museum (again free like most museums here) had art supplies for kids at the entrance.
My little artists.
Non-stop drawing.
When they got home they had so much to tell Ben and me. Sam was telling me how he didn’t even open his backpack? ‘But why Sam? Why did you pack all that and not use it?’ I knew, but he loved telling me about it. One of his drawings and a photo of the original. Dan said when he showed it to the woman at the front desk, she knew just which one it was.
Basic but delicious dinner with lots of greens on the side.
Everyone loved it, especially as it’s been a while since we had salmon and at home in Arizona, we usually have it 3 times a month.
A super good find at the local store was alcoholic ginger beer. Not exactly the same as a Moscow Mule, but it’s give it about 80% as good. And the fact that I didn’t have to do anything, not even cut limes and clean a cutting board, well that defiantly bumps it up 20%. So after doing the math, just as good as a Moscow Mule.
We were moving places the next day and still had lots of food. Easy to move it, but easier to have less to move. Dan looked up a recipe and made apple brownies. More or less, cake baked with apples. It was delicious and Max was sure that if he stared at it, it would cool more quickly.
After dinner Dan had the kids cleaning with him. Unfortunately, when Dan was sweeping, Sam’s eye got in the way…or visa versa. Who knows.
Ben, fully grossed in his book wanted to read after dinner. I came into the room and this was how he was reading. None of my children know how to sit in a normal way.
With checkout/switch apartments today, we decided to have a morning of packing and then coffee shop while we waited until our late checkout time so we could go from one place directly to the next. The kids wanted to show Dan the coffee shop with the good cinnamon rolls, but when we go there, they told us they hadn’t had a delivery yet that day. Sam was devastated and didn’t even want to try another place. ‘They won’t be the SAME!’ Clearly, but maybe they will be better? He couldn’t take it and we struggled to another place down the hill a bit. Well, this place had gigantic cinnamon rolls with icing (the other place’s rolls came without icing).
We had to get them to go, but then one of the 3 tables in the place opened up so we could eat there. Good thing, as having a fork and knife kept us a lot cleaner than would have been otherwise.
Dan has been talking about a folding bike for a while now and I just tell him it makes no sense. Do we really want more luggage? Well, there was a bike shop right next door and Dan really wanted to ‘just take a look’. We went in, he started chatting with the guy about the bikes. I saw him take a folded up bike and open it up and holy cr*p! Yes, I love being a minimalist while traveling, but I might love a good design even more. SO smooth. So smart. So cool. See video from manufacturer here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EIpZkjzrkeE
His walk commute to the university is 45 minutes, will be the same for where we are staying in Lausanne to EPFL and Helsinki too. He misses riding his bike. Bikes make him happy, very happy. After 4 minutes, I was convincing him to buy it. He took it for a spin and loved it. I chatted to the guy about size and checking it as normal luggage on a plane. Kids were hopped up on sugar and literally sliding on the floor spinning coins and chasing each other. But at least they were occupied and we only lost 6 pence.
Dan was back from his second ride and I had to get the kids out of there. They could not stop being crazy the whole walk back home.
Dan caught up to us, we attempted to get an XL uber, but none existed. So we got a regular one and Max, Sam and I took the taxi while Ben and Dan walked the 20 minutes.