Talsarnau, Wales
Posted on January 2, 2024 • 16 minutes • 3405 words
Wales was never on the list, but having an extra month in the UK (since we didn’t go to Egypt for the month of January) we had time to explore. No big plan of where, so we looked at a map of the UK and gravitated to the National Parks and hiking areas. The general plan for the UK was Airbnb for a few nights (for space and laundry) and then a few nights in a hostel, for social-ness, extra books, games and food served to you when it had just been a long day. So lots of searching of Airbnbs (which I LOVE to do), we stumbled upon this one. Possibly our favorite one to date!
Being dark when we arrived, we couldn’t see around, but the inside was awesome! It all felt so cozy, a big table for us to all fit around, fireplace, blankets galore. We made a quick dinner, put the kids to bed (after they argued about who had to sleep by themselves in the 3rd bedroom) and went to working on Finnish Visa stuff.
We woke up, made oatmeal for breakfast and after some kid journal writing, they were racing to be outside…where they stayed until we dragged them in for lunch hours later. The setting was pure magic and they were in heaven with lots of space to explore. We had no rule, no going over fences or opening gates. They just did their thing; they made games, widdled sticks, threw things. It was awesome. This is from the window in the living room. I just couldn’t stop going over to peek at how much fun they were having.
After lunch and more playing outside and more visa stuff and work inside with school added in, we decided to do a walk. We found one and getting there was half the adventure. Totally normal Welsh roads, but my parking beeper settings (the car one, not Dan) were going off on both sides at times. So narrow!
Dan being the gentleman to open the gate. Of course kids and I joked about driving off without him, although at the speed we were going on the one lane roads, the water and the walls, he probably could have gone faster. Note the water everywhere in the picture.
Not really having a trail head and being sick of driving (probably all of 15 minutes) we decided to just park and walk.
I know I have said it before, but everywhere you looked there was more and more water. Roads had rivers running down the sides, waterfalls everywhere. I know we are in a wet part of the world in winter, but the storms just added to it. I think this one was called Hank.
We were thrilled to be out walking and kids were on a mission. Walking up the road and they were super happy…finding every puddle of course, but they were happy and dry still.
Continuing walking and the trail/road seemed to end at a property. Not knowing if we could go through, Dan and Ben knocked on the door. A sweet woman told them ‘yeah, just walk on through’.
We did, but maybe with the rain we just couldn’t find the trail and were just walking in mud. Here is the ’trail’ we were following.
We sent Dan a little ahead to really check it out as Sam and Max kept crossing through the mud, over and over again. Sam demonstrating a grossed out mud face here. Not sure why as he loved the mud! They all loved it. They loved the sound the mud made, they loved when I squealed if I almost got my sock wet, they loved the suction it made on their boots. ‘No one better lose a boot’, I repeatedly said. (Spoiler alert, it happened)
We turned around and tried for a different approach to the place we were trying to go. When we walked there and when we walked back, a group of cows came over to the fence to see what the racket was all about. Max was not happy I asked him to stand ‘SO close’ to the cows. I promised they wouldn’t break through the fence. I mean, they seemed nice enough.
We reluctantly stripped muddy rain pants and boots off kids, got in the car and drove about 5 minutes to the other side. Yeah, probably should have just walked. Back dressed and headed up the road. Started up from where we parked and once again, kids tested out the waterproofness of their boots. ‘We are cleaning them Mom!’ Ugh. To be fair, apart from a boot mishap, there were 5 out of 6 dry kid socks at the end.
Heading up more, we were surrounded by exceptional views, partly thanks to it not raining yet. You can kind of see the Irish Sea in the background.
Not sure what was going on with Max, but this photo is not too rare when it comes to our family hiking. Here you can really see the Irish Sea.
We walked past farm after farm. Old stone houses that you only knew were functional because of the smoke coming from the chimney.
We hung a right off the road and started up the muddy trail. Views in every direction and 110% saturated grass (or just pure water) below our feet. Everyone was loving it at this point. Then we came to a giant puddle/bog. The younger kids didn’t stand a chance staying dry, so Dan gave them a lift. I made a poor choice and got a slightly wet sock. Ben with his big feet, yet low mass, made it the easiest. I told him it’s all about bearing pressure, but that’s a conversation for another day. I’m guessing that bog had about a 15psf bearing pressure, if that!
Greenness everywhere.
Amazing views ahead and looming rain behind. Dan asked about turning around, but it was all so magical that I said we could when it started raining.
More mud but honestly, it added to the day. :) Remember when I said we could turn around when it started raining? Well, I lied. It started, but I told Dan that we are outfitted for this, let’s keep going. Smiles the whole way!
The rain was decent, but everything but the front of kids hair stayed dry!
The trail came to a gate (for keeping sheep in or out) and with the rain still at it, we figured now was a good time to turn around. Took in the views this direction one last time and turned back.
On the way back down, the inevitable happened. Max’s shoe went into the mud and only his foot came out. Forward motion with the downhill and he couldn’t stop himself from stepping. Fortunately, his pants were so long, that by the time he went to step, the pant leg has slipped down and he stepped on that. Sock was dry! I ran over to grab him and I yelled at Dan to grab the shoe. You could see the water RIGHT at the brim. Dan pulled it out and crisis averted and funny story for the kids. 5 minutes later, Sam’s boot came off, but we weren’t as lucky on this one and his sock went right into the mud. Pulled that off, stuck the foot bak in and continued on our way, kids cracking up about the shoes.
The colors were fantastic. Everything was fantastic really. Everything seemed to just shine bright when the sun came back out. Water droplets on trees were fun to look at. So perfect looking and shiny.
Back on the main road and going back to the car. Sun came out just in time for it to set.
And yes, I took too many photos.
Never missing an opportunity to play in water, the kids insisted on cleaning their boots and pants.
Muddy pants and ‘clean’ boots in the trunk and we decided to go get some pub food. The sky went through so many changes in the matter of an hour.
Dan found us a place, I parked with no issue and we got boots back on kids. Pants stayed off for 2 of the 3. Thermals is totally acceptable I figured. It was just what we needed…big beers, hot fries. Max opted for the fried shrimp, Ben a hamburger, Sam nuggets and I got cauliflower curry. It was delicious.
True to form, Dan got the steak and kidney pudding. Just Sam wanted to taste it.
After dinner, even though if felt late thanks to a 4:05 sunset, we had plenty of time before we needed to be home for bed. We swung by the grocery store and I ran in, as we were not about to put the kids boots back on again…and it was raining. I did a quick run and got food for 2 dinners and 3 breakfasts. Easy peasey, lemon squeezey as the kids would say.
Clicked submit on Dan’s visa and celebrated with an episode of the new Shetland season. I mean, since we are heading there, we need to be up to date! So good and one of the few shows Dan and I can agree on. We have tried and tried, but turns out the only type of show we both like is British Crime Dramas.
The next day was a bit of the same, but needed to get more school work and real work in. We did school, kids played, school, kids played ALL day. It was awesome. I also did another 2 loads of laundry, after 2 the day before. And played the game of moving things around to radiators to get them fully dry. On the rack, with all the moisture in the air, nothing fully dried. It was kind of fun/satisfying in an odd way.
Weather even cooperated that we had lunch outside. With all my layers and -8 deg celsius jacket, I’m a changed person! I’m sure the second I’m back in AZ I’ll turn into a total wimp, but I’m attempting to embrace the weather here.
More school work inside (even though the kids begged for it outside) and more playing outside. Reluctantly, the kids came in when it was dark…at 5pm. I was making dinner, kids were making a fort and the doorbell rang! It was our host to say hello and let us now if we needed anything. She was so sweet after talking for a bit and giving advice on trains that we asked about, she headed out and we ate dinner. Roasted potatoes, sausages and green beans was a hit!
Kids went down easy, after the argument of who was going to sleep alone. That turned into a kid on the floor so they could all be together. It wasn’t worth the argument at that point. It was a day and with getting enough work done during the day and no mental energy for visa stuff, we vegged out with wine and watched 3 Shetland episodes. I’m always the one that wants to do ‘just one more’. I want to know who the killer was. With some shows I have gotten so impatient that I have googled in on the couch. It’s bad, I know. I can wait 9 months to figure out the sex of my kids, but the murderer from a fake show…no way.
Pretty uneventful day, but really just perfect for what we needed. Well perfect, except for this happened.
We were within walking distance from a train station, where a small local train ran across the inlet and up the coast. Much to my dismay, the kids pretty much ran the whole way down the hill there. It would have been so simple to drive, but where’s the fun in that. Triple checked the schedule (that our host helped us decipher. Well not decipher, but finding the right schedule was a challenge) walked the 12 minutes to the train station. Actually, much to my dismay the kids pretty much ran the whole way down the hill there.
Only ones at the stop and the clouds were settled really low on the hills behind us.
Kids found this sign, what we were at a non-scheduled stop…aka teeny…so 10 minutes later when 2 car train came rumbling down the line, kids were jumping and waving arms frantically. It stopped, phew!
Dan found the conductor. We bought tickets and chatted with him for a bit. Super friendly. We crossed the inlet with gorgeous view and chatted about the level of the water…probably low tide we decided. Our days in Wales had really been beautiful and I think that was magnified by the clouds, skies and sun constantly peeking through to light it up in different ways. Then everything was consistently wet, so everything glittered.
I love trains, so I do get it, but it still amazes me how much more kids will stare our a window in a train than a car. Maybe they can see more since the window is lower…and bigger.
We took the train to Cricceth, a small down about 10 miles away with a castle, a couple beaches and a few shops/cafes. And when I say few, I mean a few…especially since a lot seemed to be closed for the winter. Disembarked and walked down a path, past a park which we said we could ‘maybe’ come back to after we went to the castle. The Cricceth Castle is perched atop a bluff, situated beautifully for views out over the water. Yes, back in the day to check for invaders, but worked out well for us to have amazing views. We paid the entrance fee, again a family price, and started meandering our way up.
There was a map, but it was drawn in perspective, without a scale and hard to follow. No worries, we just went every which way…not too hard as it was not that big.
We have been calling it the Irish Sea, but maybe we should be calling it ‘an inlet of the Irish Sea.’ Either way, stunning.
I’m pretty sure you can see about half the town in this photo. Okay, not fair, but it was a small town.
Dan looking for invaders. Spoiler alert! 3 invaders have infiltrated the walls and won’t leave…EVER!!!
Another bonus to traveling in the rainy season, so many rainbows!
We made our way into the castle. The contrast of the grey walls and the bright green grass was so different from the castles we had seem previously on our trip. True, that was summer and the dry months, but I’m not sure other parts of the world would ever get this green! I also really appreciate seeing an old building in it’s current state that hasn’t been piecemeal-ed back together. Don’t get me wrong, it’s stunning to see an ancient castle ‘still’ in it’s full grandeur, with full height walls, giant towers, etc. But also seeing the ruins of a once grand castle has it’s charm. I do love me a good set of ruins.
One of the entrance towers, minus the top.
And Max showing us how he was NOT stepping in the puddle. First time for everything.
We started walking back down to the entrance/exit. And as we were exiting, we finally got a view of the entry towers.
We tried to walk around the exhibit a bit, but the kids were getting hungry and we didn’t last long. I did browse the gift shop and bought us a book of Wales folklore stories, complete with dragons, castles and magic. We waited too long for food and Sam was struggling. Dan stayed back with him while he calmed down from whatever was going wrong and the rest of us went to check out a beach west of the castle. We threw tons of rocks but didn’t stay long…walked back hoping Sam had recovered and that we could all go to the beach on the other side together. Also, it seemed like a storm was coming in.
Sam was doing well and we all went to another beach together. On the way we found a very cute cover for a mailbox.
We ate sandwiches, well I fed kids sandwiches, bite by bite, because I didn’t want them holding the sandwich with their filthy hands that were picking up rock after rock.
Sam’s lot.
Ben and Dan got into a pretty intense rock skipping contest. Everyone votes for anyone but Dan…and as Max explains it, it’s because ‘Dad is so stinky’. Not sure why this means he has to lose at all games, but it’s kinda hilarious. And why is he stinky? All because Sam wrote a book about his feet months ago and it has just stuck.
Dan had the idea of having a rock searching contest. The first mission was the reddest rock. So we would all go search for the best one we could find in the 2 minutes Dan gave us, then return with our rock for voting. Each person got one vote and you couldn’t vote for yourself. Max won! He did have two entries, but that’s okay.
The next mission was the most spherical. Ben easily took the cake here.
We did a few more, skipped and threw more rocks and then headed into town for a quick coffee before the train back. The train is once every 2 hours, so we didn’t want to miss it. Passed cute buildings on cute streets on our walk to cafe after cafe that was closed.
We settled on a bakery to get some sweets and some food for dinner. You could smell the deliciousness from outside.
I told the kids they could have one dessert if they could agree on one. Max got outvoted and didn’t handle it well. He wanted the one with sprinkles. He did recover when he got a bite of the chosen one. We headed to the station, but had plenty of time, so let them play at the park for 15 minutes that we had passed before. Dan and I commented on the safeness of the spinny thing. It’s not set into the ground, a chair for a kid to sit in and hand grips.
Back at the train station, I figured eating the desserts that were filled with cream and custard was a good thing to do BEFORE boarding the train. The one I picked was delicious!
Train came on time. Boarded for the 20-something minute ride back home with more lovely views. Walk back to our place and kids went right straight to the backyard to play.
Dinner was great. Dan had got pork pies for the kids, that came in their own aluminium (since we are in the UK) cup, a roasted veggie thing with goat cheese for me and a roll thing for him. Sam requested peas and pretty much ate the whole can of peas. Not my kid. That with left over potatoes and beets and we had a great dinner.
I cleaned up dinner and came into this. Dan lit a fire and was now reading them Sherlock Holmes.
Our host was so nice and told us we could stay as long as we wanted that day since no one was checking in that day. It was so nice, since our next place was less than an hour away and check in was at 3pm. Kids got to play outside more, do more school work and I went for a run.
I started out up the road, but was so tempted to take the public pathway when I came to it. It was awesome for about 3 minutes, until I came to an impassible bog.
I did at least reach a cute bridge. Just a giant slab of rock.
Not a long run, but I got what I needed out of it. And I don’t think I’ll ever get sick of the fresh air and the constant smell of rain. Well, maybe eventually. Came back to kids that had found shovels and buckets in the garage. It was not going to be really hard to convince them to leave.
Took a shower to warm up my feet, collected the remainder of the clothes that were drying on radiators and packed up. Kids came in for lunch, played a bit more and we were headed to Snowdonia National Park.