Alpeta Winery, Albania
Posted on August 6, 2023 • 9 minutes • 1746 words
I want to start this post with talking about how I have never (and I mean never and I’ve traveled a LOT) felt so welcomed into a country as I/we have in Albania. Within minutes my kids are on hugging terms with waiters and people from where we stayed. Older people would walk up to us in the streets, bend down to the kids level and start speaking to the kids (in Albanian) with huge smiles on their faces. Then they ruffle the kids hair as they walk away. Numerous times a day, head kisses or hair ruffles. Kids returned it with big smiles or giggles…except Max a couple times when he was grumpy because of something not going his way.
The kids were constantly given gifts (chocolates or sweets) from our B & B in Gjirokaster and ran into the owners arms each morning when we came out for breakfast.
When we went to the castle in Gjirokaster, the guy that gave us our tickets said ‘welcome’ in the MOST genuine tone I have ever heard. It was like he was saying a million things with that one word and kind eyes.
The overall feeling is hard to explain, but it has been felt deeply by all of us…even the kids I think.
Okay, onto the updates…
I had picked the Hotel Evropa in Podgorica because it has breakfast included and was 200m from the bus stop, knowing we’d have a morning bus ride. It all couldn’t have gone smoother, except for Max having to go pee yet again as the driver was boarding the bus. He motioned to the wheel and Max peed there. We had the last row of seats, so we were 5 across, great except for the fact I was worried if a kid was in the middle whey would have gone flying down the isle if we stopped suddenly.
We had beautiful scenery as we headed towards the boarder. I never got a great photo though.
The first stop was Skroder and we already had kids (and me) that had to go to the bathroom. Sitting in traffic I walked up to the driver and asked about time for bathroom in the bus station. He responded ‘no bus station! Go restaurant!” Hmmm…so as we approached the ‘bus stop’, the kids and I crouched in the front of the bus and darted off as the bus finally stopped. One last look at Dan to signal ‘don’t let this bus leave without us, but if it does, grab the passport/computer bag! I had been checking out the area as we were approaching and saw a big hotel. I picked up Max, grabbed Sam’s hand and told Ben to stay close as we sprinted to the hotel. I had NO idea how much time we had. There was another lady tagging along. We run it, ask rapidly for ‘toilet’ and run there. There were 2 stalls so I put all the kids on one toilet and I took the other. I guess Max got peed on a bit. :) Fast hand washing (no soap!) and we were sprinting back…this time with Max running as he did NOT want to be carried and wanted to join in on the ’fun’. We made it!
The rest of the ride was brutal as the 4hr ride took 7hrs due to traffic. I had a friend (Marcella) giving me Women’s World Cup updated, which helped until we lost. We were feeding the kids morsels as Max has to poop after he eats a lot and severely limiting water. I guess the driver knew we needed a break and he pulled into a restaurant parking lot and everyone unloaded for bathroom, smokes, food and coffee. Super bonus…it had a playground, and even though it was raining a bit, kids still loved playing.
Back on the bus and an hour later, we arrived. Cab to airport, Dan got Albania lekes from an ATM, I got the car. Very easy transition and we were off. As soon as we got out of town, we had amazing scenery and then a giant mountain that loomed over us for the 2nd half of the drive.
We drove 2 hours (with Dan feeding us all dinner in the car and Ben rescuing a turtle)
to one of the most magical places! And the giant mountain was right out out back patio!
I had googled ‘top 10 Albania agrotourism’ or something like that. The first 6 were booked, but this one looked great. They only had a quad, but it looked so amazing that I booked that for 4 nights and then emailed to ask if the 5 of us could fit with the 3yo on the ground. They responded that they were just finishing construction on the ‘family room’ and it would be available to book that Saturday and they could email me when it went online. Amazing! It had enough beds for the kids, but the kids thought it was hilarous that Max fit in the crib.
We pulled up (it was literally at the end of a road that seemed to wind around forever…but really only 10 minutes) and immediately knew this place was special. We got checked in, Dan worked on getting the kids to bed and I went to the restaurant to get food and wine for Dan and myself food. I asked for a menu and the guy said ‘I’m the menu’ with a smile and told me options. I said we just needed something light and he put together a big salad, homemade bread and cheese. I tasted 2 wines and picked one to bring back. When I got back, the kids were dozing off and I took our dinner to the patio to relax after a very long day. Kids sleeping, Dan and I sipping wine, it was a nice end to the day.
The next day was Monday (my work day) so after a delicious breakfast (included in the stay)
some outdoor school
and lunch, Dan took the kids on a hike while I worked…with a view!
Kids came back all excited to tell me about the hike and Sam was thrilled to see the new friend I made.
Followed up the day with a lovely dinner and food that the kids scarfed up. First course before the main course of chicken and some grain, stewed to perfection.
The restaurant is up on a patio and below is a giant area below grape vines with a garden, chickens in the back and so much open space. It became our ritual for Dan and I to sit down, order and only have the kids come up when food was ready.
The LOVED it down there and we enjoyed the quiet before the storm. Completely to themselves and space to run, all close enough to come when they heard the family call.
The second full day we were there we went to Berat. Special enough to have its own post. :) Link below https://travelingengineer.com/blog/2023-08-08-berat/
Our last couple days at Alpeta Winery were more or less the same…but no less special. Kids ran around, breakfast, school, lunch, kids ran around, reading, did some exploring, dinner and chill time.
And so much fresh fruit and veggies at every meal.
Dan and I did bribe the kids one night with 2 episodes of ‘Aquarium’ in the room so we could do the wine tour.
Rule: only leave the room if there is a fire (in that case bring your brothers) or lots of blood. You can NOT come look for us if the show stops working. Dan checked in on them a couple times and all was well. We had a lovely time, talking for hours about life and travel with a few great people from Italy and The Netherlands. Included in the tour and tasting of wine, was some snacks and raki tasting. Not my thing, but the owner gave a pretty convincing speech of why he loves it and how it’s rooted deeply in their culture. Heartwarming, but again…not my thing.
When we turned in very late, all kids were asleep sprawled out on their beds…hopefully, already asleep for a few hours.
In the garden area, where we hung out a lot, the kids found a toad that not only hopped, but walked like a lizard at times. So weird.
Our last night dinner.
I can’t express how amazing the food was here. I should have taken more photos. Everything was fresh and so flavorful. It felt (and I think true) that 90% of what we ate came from a 10km radius…or 100m for most of it. Yes Dan and I loved it, but the kids were chowing down on it all! Full disclosure, after day 3 the kids were about done with feta.
One day when the kids were playing in the downstairs, vine covered area we heard Sammy start screaming. Screaming like something is wrong, not screaming like my brother took my favorite stick. The owner jumps up (grandpa age) and runs to see what happened. Sam had been stung by 3 wasps and the owner was carrying him up as another woman is rubbing sugar on it to help with the pain. A decent amount of whimpering in my arms after and he was as good as new.
It has space to roam, but the restaurant and seating area is not huge, so we were always kinda around. Anytime a worker or owner saw the kids, they would stick their hand out for a high five or open their arms for a hug…and they were ALWAYS given the high five or hug. Somehow they communicated so much with our kids, without even speaking the same language.
Our last morning there, the kids were downstairs as we were sipping cappuccinos when they saw a guy picking tomatoes. Next thing you know, all three kids have helped fill up 4 giant tubs of tomatoes.
When the time came to leave, it took a good 10 minutes of hugs and goodbyes.
Sam was gifted a jar of honey as a ‘I’m sorry’ from the wasps/bees and he cherished it for days, talking about ‘his’ honey…which he finally shared with all of us.
And would it really be a trip if I didn’t comment on some odd engineering. The cripple post to nowhere.
Not the safest guardrail, but it did the trick as long as you didn’t touch it.
